Always take the slow ferry
The fast boat saves ninety minutes. The slow one gives you the whole afternoon.
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Noto, after the tour buses leave
Sicily’s baroque jewel belongs to day-trippers until five o’clock. Then the light turns to honey, and the town goes back to its owners.
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Marrakech before eight o’clock
The medina at dawn belongs to bread, cats, and the last hour of cool air. It is a different city — arguably the real one.
